Calabrian Clams and Abalone Bigoli

Spaghetti used to be my favorite pasta. It was dependable, elegant in its simplicity, and forgiving enough to carry whatever I paired it with — clams, abalone, garlic, butter, heat.

Ceramic bowl was wheel-thrown and glazed by me.

Then I discovered bigoli.

The difference is subtle at first glance. Both are long, both coil neatly around a fork. But bigoli carries more weight. Its texture is denser, slightly rougher, and it holds sauce with a quiet confidence that spaghetti never quite achieved. Once I tasted it, spaghetti lost its permanent place at the top of my list.

I discovered bigoli at Open Market — a small neighborhood space that is part coffee spot, part contemporary sandwich shop, part wine shop, and barely a dry goods corner. Occasionally, it hosts pop-up dinners or tastings. It feels less like a store and more like a room that happens to sell a way of living.

I do wish it leaned further into the “market” aspect. The dry goods selection is barely there, and I often find myself hoping for a few more shelves of pasta and pantry staples. Still, places like this matter. They are curated, intentional, and woven into the rhythm of the neighborhood. They are not trying to be everything. They are trying to be something specific.

Bigoli was one of those specifics.

After several recipe tests over a couple of months, Calabrian Clams and Abalone Bigoli found its balance — not from the peppers themselves, but from the oil in the jar. The oil carries heat without overwhelming the brine of the clams or the quiet sweetness of the abalone.

The goal was never intensity for its own sake. It was precision. Enough heat to wake the palate, not so much that it dominates. Enough richness to feel indulgent, not so much that it dulls the dish.

INGREDIENTS

[a generous main course for one]

eight Manila clams, scrubbed and rinsed

one whole abalone, removed from the shell and lightly tenderized

a half tablespoon of unsalted butter

two garlic cloves

one tablespoon of Calabrian pepper oil, from the jar

three Calabrian peppers, jarred

a quarter teaspoon of paprika

two splashes of white wine

one pinch of sea salt

one portion of bigoli, cooked al dente

Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the bigoli until al dente. Reserve a small splash of pasta water before draining.

While the pasta cooks, heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter and garlic cloves, allowing the garlic to become fragrant without browning.

Add the clams and two splashes of white wine. Cover the skillet and allow the clams to steam until they open, about three to four minutes. Discard any that remain closed.

Remove the lid and add the cooked bigoli to the skillet along with the Calabrian peppers and pepper oil. Toss gently to coat, allowing the pasta to absorb the clam juices. If needed, add a small splash of reserved pasta water to loosen the sauce.

Add the whole abalone and season with paprika and sea salt. Cook for about two to three minutes, turning once, just until the abalone is opaque and cooked through. Avoid overcooking, as it can become firm.

Plate immediately and serve warm.

_____

Recipes from my kitchen:

Spicy Italian Sausage Orecchiette

Fire Nakji and Red Bell Pepper

Spicy Pork From Korean to Mexican

Crispy Zucchini Blossoms

The Tang of Dissent

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