Haemul Pajeon, Korean Seafood Green Onion Pancake

Whoever coined the phrase “bigger is better” clearly never consulted a five-foot-three-inch woman. I have long maintained that fabulousity often comes in small packages. There are exceptions, of course, and Haemul Pajeon, the Korean Seafood Green Onion Pancake, makes a rather delicious case for abandoning my principles. When it comes to this Korean favorite, thickness is everything.

Packed with shrimp, squid, green onions, zucchini, and yellow onions, these savory pancakes are a glorious celebration of excess, at least where ingredients are concerned. While many recipes favor thinner pancakes or arrange the ingredients neatly on top, there is a reason the thicker, generously stuffed versions served at Korean restaurants have gone viral. With their crisp, deeply browned exteriors giving way to tender, seafood-packed interiors, they deliver a combination of flavor and texture that thinner versions simply cannot match. Sometimes, bigger really is better. Or, in this case, thicker.

INGREDIENTS

three-quarter cup of Korean savory pancake mix

one and three-eighths cups of water

seven green onions, cut into index-finger-length pieces

two ounces of zucchini, cut into thin strips

one-eighth of a yellow onion, thinly sliced

ten medium-sized shrimp, peeled, deveined, and halved

two ounces of squid, diced

four generous pinches of sea salt

one tablespoon of vegetable oil

If you are wondering what you will do with a bag of Korean savory pancake mix, rest assured, it may well earn permanent residency in your pantry. It is particularly useful during the colder months, when vegetable fritters and potato pancakes become considerably more appealing.

In a large bowl, whisk together the Korean savory pancake (jeon) mix and water. Add the remaining ingredients, except the vegetable oil, and mix until evenly combined.

Heat a 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat and add the vegetable oil. Gently pour the batter into the pan. Spread the ingredients evenly across the surface and lower the heat to medium-high. Cook for eight to ten minutes, gently lifting and rocking the pan every few minutes to loosen the pancake.

You can attempt an airborne flip, if you are feeling particularly theatrical, but I prefer a less adventurous approach. Once only a trace of uncooked batter remains visible on the surface, I use two spatulas to turn the pancake over. Cook for another eight to ten minutes, occasionally rocking the pan to keep the pancake from sticking. After eight minutes on the second side, insert a toothpick into the center to check for doneness. If it comes out free of uncooked batter, the pancake is ready. Take care not to confuse moisture released by the shrimp or onions with uncooked batter.

Once fully cooked, turn off the heat and let the pancake rest for about two minutes before slicing and serving.

Of course, no Haemul Pajeon is complete without a dipping sauce. Mine is a rather unconventional combination of truffle-flavored white soy sauce, balsamic vinegar, and gochugaru. Simply combine the three ingredients in a small bowl, adjusting each to taste. Regular soy sauce can substitute for white soy sauce, and paprika can stand in for gochugaru. No precise measurements required. Consider it an opportunity to practice your culinary instincts.

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More recipes:

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Shiso Pork Belly Rice

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