The Art of the Cold Shoulder

The shoulder has repeatedly been treated as one of fashion’s safest ways to be sensual. Most of us give Brigitte Bardot the credit for making the off-the-shoulder silhouette iconic—and certainly, few wore it with more persuasive nonchalance—but fashion history tells a far longer story. Recognizable versions of the neckline appear as far back as the 17th century, when European bodices widened and dipped low enough to reveal both the décolletage and shoulders. By the 19th century, the silhouette had become a fixture of evening dress. Queen Victoria herself wore a broad, shoulder-baring neckline for her 1840 wedding, and through the 1850s and 1860s, off-the-shoulder ball gowns paired tightly corseted bodices with sweeping skirts and bertha collars that framed exposed shoulders in lace, silk, and ruffles. Victorian modesty, it turns out, was considerably more situational than its reputation suggests.

Calouste Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon, Portugal

The silhouette continued to surface as fashion loosened in the early 20th century, though designers increasingly exposed the shoulder through draping, asymmetry, halters, and bias-cut evening gowns rather than the rigid architecture of the Victorian bodice. Then came Bardot. In the 1950s and ’60s, she stripped the look of its ballroom formality and gave it something far more potent: ease. Worn with simple knits, cotton tops, tousled hair, and seemingly little concern for propriety, the exposed shoulder became youthful, casual, and unmistakably modern. So closely was the look associated with her that the wide, shoulder-baring neckline became known as the Bardot neckline—less an invention than a particularly brilliant act of reinvention.

Fashion, of course, rarely retires a good idea. By the 1980s, the silhouette had loosened again, sliding off oversized sweatshirts, knits, and dancewear with the studied carelessness of the decade. It returned with remarkable force in 2015 and 2016, when ruffled cotton blouses, elasticized necklines, exaggerated sleeves, and shoulder-baring dresses seemed to appear everywhere at once. What has changed over the centuries is not the appeal of the exposed shoulder, but the attitude surrounding it: aristocratic, romantic, rebellious, effortless. And because some silhouettes deserve another turn, I’ve curated 12 off-the-shoulder tops and dresses that make a convincing case for showing a little shoulder.

MARCELLA

Cabrini Mesh One-Shoulder Top